My name is Cyndi of bdancewear.com and I am going to show you how to take a strapless leotard and turn it into something cute and sassy. So, if you are looking for a look that provides a little bit of coverage on your stomach or you want to create your own look but you are not really comfortable with making a leotard from scratch using a very basic pattern for a leotard or a strapless leotard, you can always buy a leotard and customize it as we are going to do here. So, in this case, I have taken a strapless leotard and created a halter neck but then we also created the cutouts giving it a nice, open, low back. This just might be the project for you if you are looking for something relatively simple to do that is super sassy and super fun. If so, you should go ahead and check out this tutorial.
Supplies:
- Strapless leotard
- Matching stretch mesh or Lycra
- Matching thread
- Safety Pins
- Straight Pins
- Scissors
- Tailor’s Chalk, small piece of soap or a
pen specifically for marking material - Sewing Machine
Directions:
- Choosing Your Materials
Buy a strapless leotard of your choice. If you already have a leotard that you do not need, you could definitely use it. You could use the concept of a cutout on a regular leotard, but in this lesson, we are using a strapless.
You will also need to have either matching mesh or Lycra for the straps (if you choose a strapless leotard) and to finish the cutout.
- Preparing the Leotard
Before you do anything to the leotard, you will want to have someone wear it, preferably the person for which it is being customized, because it will stretch when it is put on. If you cut a hole in it first and then someone pulls it on, you are going to have a problem because there will be something funky going on like having their boobs showing.
While the girl is wearing the leotard, you need to do two things. Position the straps on the top of the strapless leotard where you want to attach the straps. You also want to mark the location of the cutout.
- Positioning the Straps
Cut a strip of stretch mesh that matches the leotard. It should be about 8 inches wide and long enough to go around the dancer’s neck with a few inches to spare on each side. To create the strap, fold the mesh strip in half lengthwise and drape it around the back of the dancer’s neck with the ends hanging equally on both sides. Next, tuck one end of the mesh under the top of the leotard in a spot where there would normally be a strap like a strap for a bra and pin it into place with safety pins. Determine how wide you want the straps to be and pin both sides of the end of the strip to reflect that width. When you sew it to the top of the leotard, you will actually gather the end of the straps when you sew them to the leotard. You will notice that I am using straight pins because it is on a mannequin but if a person is wearing the leotard, then you should definitely use safety pins so that you do not prick the wearer and so that the straps stay attached when it is removed. Do the same with the other end of the mesh pinned on the same spot on the other side. The strap should be pulled up taut but not so tight that the leotard cannot be taken off. It needs to be comfortable for the dancer but not so loose that the dancer feels that the leotard is going to fall down on her.
- Marking for the Cutout
The other thing you will want to do while the dancer is still wearing the leotard is to determine where the bottom bust line stops. You want to go a few inches below where the bust line stops and mark that spot with Tailor’s Chalk, a small bar of soap or a pen specifically created for marking material that will wash out. Then, start marking the leotard in a circular fashion towards the center front of the leotard to show where you want it to be cut out.
- Attaching the Straps
Now that the wearer has removed the leotard, you will definitely want to make sure that the straps are evenly placed. In order to assure this, fold the leotard folded in half with the side seams matching. This will allow you to easily see if the straps are both the same distance from the side seams and the same distance from center front. Make sure the ends of the strip of mesh or Lycra is folded in half and then gather the ends up a little to reduce their width where they are attached to the leotard. Also, make sure that the ends are pinned inside the top of the leotard.
- Cutting the Cutout
Next, turn the leotard inside out and fold it in half with the actual folds in the center back and the center back. This will give you a side view. Also, match the side seams at the top and bottom and match the top of the leg openings. I am used to doing this so I do not bother pinning the leotard together at these points. However, unless you are very comfortable marking and cutting fabrics without first pinning the layers together, you should probably pin the leotard together at least at these strategic points, including at the top and bottom of the center front fold and center back fold – and even more spots if you wish. Although I can easily see my markings that outline the half circle that I have marked on the front side of the leotard, it is probably hard for you to see in these pictures. With the leotard on the table, continue the top and bottom of this half circle extending both the top and bottom lines in a straight line to the back fold.
With the leotard still on the table, hold it in place and cut along the marked lines. Ultimately, you will have cut a half circle in the front and cut straight through the back seam that cuts through both layers. When you unfold the leotard, you will find that you now have an oval cutout that starts on one side of the front, goes around the back and finishes on the front on the other side. Basically, whatever is cut on the left side of the leotard will be the same on the right side. You will probably see some spots that need to have the cut edge cleaned up a little bit to make the cutout opening smooth all the way around. Just trim those rough spots to obtain that smooth look. Remember, if you find one spot that needs to be trimmed, there will most likely be a corresponding spot on the opposite side.
Before you do any sewing, have the girl try the leotard on one more time to make sure you like the cutout and the placement of the straps.
- Sewing the Straps to the Leotard
Next, stitch the straps in place. You have already checked the placement of the straps, but you may check. But, before you do that, make sure that the straps are evenly placed. Being careful to not move the straps and with the straps on the inside, gather the ends of the straps between the pins a little bit making sure that the straps are not too clumpy and stitch over the leotard and the strap using a straight stitch. It is up to you if you want to pin the gathered portion to the leotard before you see it. As always, it is important to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitching. Make sure that the stitching is nice and strong. After straight stitching across the strap, go over the leotard and straps one more time using a small zig zag or stretch stitch it at the very top edge of the leotard next to the top edge of the leotard on top of that straight stitch. Next, repeat this step on the other end of the strap. Assuming you use a thread that matches the leotard, the stitching on the ends of the strap will blend in. However, if you wish, you could cover those stitches with rhinestones or appliqués.
- Finishing the Edge of the Cutout
There are a couple of ways to finish off the cut edges on the leotard. One way would be to turn the edges of the cutout and sew it down with very thin elastic inside the folded edge. I prefer to use the second choice which is to cover the edge of the cutout using long thin strips of matching stretch mesh or Lycra which is left over scraps from the material used to make the straps. Before you do anything to finish off the cutout, it is a good idea to have the dancer try the leotard on again to make sure that you like the way it looks– especially if it is the first time you have tried this. Sewing around the cutout should anchor the tops and bottoms of the side seams where you have cut through them. However, it wouldn’t hurt to sew over those seams to make sure that they are secure.
Cut long thin strips of the mesh or Lycra to cover the raw edge of the cutout. You can measure around the cutout to determine how long it needs to be. As far as the width, it needs to be wide enough to sew it on to the cutout and then turn it over the edge and sew it again. I usually cut it wider than I think is necessary because I can always go over it when I am done sewing and trim the excess away.
Leaving the first inch free, start pinning the long narrow strip of mesh or Lycra at the center back seam of the leotard with the mesh or Lycra abutting the cutout. If you are comfortable sewing the strip around the cutout, you do not need to pin the mesh or Lycra in place. Otherwise, it is a good idea to pin the strips to the cutout. Using a straight stitch sew the edge of the mesh to edge of the cutout using a seam allowance of a little more than ¼ inch. It is important to stretch the mesh or pull the mesh slightly as you sew it to the edge of the cutout. This will keep the edge of the cutout close do the body and keep it from sticking out or puckering. Keep sewing the mesh all the way around the cutout while continuing to pull the mesh or Lycra slightly. Keep the distance between the stitches and the edge of the cutout even. That will be really important when you go back around the cutout again.
The second time around the cutout, use a zig zag or if your sewing machine has a stretch stitch, this is a good place to use it. You want to pull the mesh a little so that cutout area of the leotard sticks to the dancer’s body and does not pucker. You could use Lycra instead of mesh if you want.
Once you have sewn all the way around the cut out and fold over the end to give it a finished end. Tuck that folded end of the mesh or Lycra under that inch that you left unpinned at the beginning.
Now, fold the mesh or Lycra lengthwise over the cutout edge so that it covers that raw edge of the cutout. Again, unless you are very comfortable with this, pin it all the way around the cutout. Sew it down all around the edge of the cutout using a very small zig zag stitch or stretch stitch over the edges.
Make sure that every time you go over a side seam or the center back seam that it is tucked under. Keep going around.
It is really that easy.
If you enjoyed this demonstration, make sure to look at our other demonstration or the Bdancewear videos on YouTube. You can subscribe to our channel so that you do not miss any of the amazing DIY videos that we will have coming out. If you want to get our free complete dance costume DIY guide, go to bdancewear.com/DIY guide. Lastly, if you have any questions or ideas for future videos or presentations, please contact us through our YouTube channel or on our website – bdancewear.com
Remember – be original, be colorful, bdancewear.com.
