Hi, I am Cyndi from bdancewear.com and I am going to show you how to take a pair of pants and add a stripe to it. This also works with long sleeve shirts, shorts or anything else that you wish. The process works the same on all of them. So if you are looking to add a little flair to a pair of pants or make them a little funkier, this may be just the video for you.
I am going to use contrasting fabrics to show you how to do this. That will make it very easy to see. I am going to use a pair of navy pants and I am going to put an orange slice in it.
Supplies:
- Pants
- Fabric for stripe
- Matching thread
- Tailor’s chalk or small piece of soap
- Pins
- Scissors
Directions:
- Choosing Your Materials
The first thing you are going to need to do is obtain a pair of pants that are the right size for the dancer. Next, you need to decide whether you want to use fabric of a different color but the same fabric as the pants or if you want the stripe to be a different texture or pattern.
I have decided to use navy Lycra pants with an orange Lycra stripe.
- Determining Placement and Size of Stripe
Next, you need to determine where you want the fabric slice to appear. I suggest you have the dancer, or whoever the pants are for, try on the pair of pants and then decide if where you want the stripe to appear – on the calf, the knee or the thigh and pin or mark that spot with tailor’s chalk or soap bar. You will also need to mark a horizontal line across the pants where the top of the slice will appear. Make sure that the horizontal chalk line is level and cut the pants along that chalk line.
If you are creating this look on a number of pants where it is important for the pants to match, I highly suggest that you have the dancers stand next to each other when you mark where you want the stripe to appear. That is the best way to make sure that the stripes are on the same place on each pair of pants.
You will also need to determine how wide you want the stripe to be. On my sample, I cut the fabric 4 ½ inches wide which gives me a 4 inch slice with a seam allowance of ¼ inch on each side of the slice. You need to also remember to allow for a ¼ inch seam allowance on the pants themselves both above the slice and below the slice.
- Cutting Pant Leg
Now, you need to cut the bottom of the pant leg to allow for the fabric stripe. When you cut the bottom half, you cannot just cut out 4 ½ inches from the top of the leg bottom. Since you allowed a ¼ inch on each side of the strip, that means you will need to allow for the seam allowance on the leg bottom, also. So, cut a 3 ½ inch strip out of the top of the leg bottom. You have to be careful that you calculate exactly what your seam allowances should be on the fabric stripe and on the leg. As long as you cut it correctly and allow for the proper seam allowance top and bottom, the hem should be even. If you don’t, you will have one leg shorter than the other.
- Cutting Fabric Stripe
The next step is to fold the fabric in half and lay the strip cut out of the pants on the top of the fabric that you will use for the insert. You want to match the fold in the leg to the fold in the fabric. Remember, for this sample I want a ¼ inch seam allowance on both sides of the stripe. So, I will need to add a ½ inch to the width of the stripe. So, I am going to add 1 inch on each side of the strip.
When it comes to the open end of the fabric, I want to make sure to allow enough extra material on the fabric strip to allow for a seam allowance here, also. If the pant leg tapers in a little, you need to make sure that you allow for that when you cut the side of the fabric strip. You want to make sure that the width of the leg at the top of the strip is equal to the width of the top part of the leg and that the bottom of the strip is equal to the width of the top of the leg bottom. To make it a little bit easier to match that slant of the side seam, turn the strip cut from the pants inside out. This will allow you to see that side seam and cut your fabric exactly the same including allowing for a seam allowance. If the pant leg was sewn with an overlock machine and you are going to use a regular sewing machine, you will want to add just a little to the seam allowance to account for that difference.
If you want a different size stripe use the same process. Just make sure that you make the appropriate calculations for the seam allowances that you have chosen.
- Pinning and Sewing Fabric Stripe in Leg
Make sure that the width at the top and bottom of the strip matches up with the widths of the leg. I am going to fold the strip of fabric with the right sides together and sew that side seam so that the strip looks like a tube. I am going to use a stretch stitch that is nice and wide. If you do not have a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, use a zigzag stitch. Remember to always start each seam with a backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Luckily, the width of the pant leg that I am using is the same up and down the length of the leg so I do not have to worry about trying to match the fabric strip with the width of the leg.
Slide one end of the “tube” over the bottom portion of the leg and match the strip up with the leg bottom lining up the side seams. Again, I need to make sure that the right sides of the pant leg and the fabric strip are facing each other. I suggest you pin the pieces together particularly since Lycra tends to slide. I would suggest that you at least pin the strip and the pant leg together at the inside seam, the fold on the outside side of the leg and then at the half way spots between these the inside seam and the outside fold. Because I feel very comfortable sewing without pins, I just hold the pieces in place and check it as I sew when I am doing something like this.
I have chosen to place the stripe on the thigh and I am going to sew the stripe at the thigh (the top portion of the pant leg) first. Next, I will go through the same steps with the leg bottom.
If you see something is not right, this is where you can fix it before you sew the strip into place. For instance, you can adjust the inside seam if the pieces are not fitting together properly.
Start sewing at the inside seam. Make sure that the edge of the fabric matches up with the edge of the leg piece and does not move around.
There you have a stripe in the pants. It is so easy to do. If you are looking for a little color, this might be the perfect one for you. Have fun with it and send me a picture or a video if you make this pattern. I would love to see your finished product.
NOTE: We also have a tutorial that shows How to Make a Color Block Top. You might want to use that tutorial to complete your outfit. You could also make a matching top by putting a stripe in the bodice or in a long sleeve.
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