In this section, we will be instructing you on how to sew snaps and hooks and eyes. There are different types of snaps and hooks and eye and they each require a slightly different technique. But, there are great tricks to learn in this section.
Supplies:
- Snaps or Hooks and Eyes
- Thread to match material or, as
described below match the
thread to snaps or hooks and eyes - Needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
Directions:
- Choosing Your Materials
When choosing your thread, usually you would use thread that matches your material. If you can hide the stitches in the layers of material, then consider matching the thread to the snaps or hooks and eyes.
Traditional snaps are circular in shape and consist of two pieces that snap together. The snaps come in different sizes and colors. Typically, they come in two colors – black or silver. However, sometimes you can find them in white.
There are three different hooks and eyes. They also come in different styles and sizes. Like snaps, hooks and eyes use two pieces – a “hook” and an “eye.” The hook connects onto the eye. The traditional hooks and eyes have two different eyes. One eye is flat and looks almost like an “I” and the other eye is rounded and looks like a fat “U.” When connecting the hook and the flat eye, the fabrics are a little bit tighter and a little bit closer than other hooks and eyes. The hooks and eyes also come in large sizes which are typically for heavy items such as coats or jackets. There is also a hook and eye that is slightly larger than the traditional hook and eye. They are very flat and smooth and are the tightest fit among the hooks and eyes.
Once the decision is made whether you want snaps or hooks and eyes, you then have to choose the size and color. When it comes to deciding on the size of the snap, you need to consider the size and weight of the garment. As far as the color you choose, usually the only choice you have is silver. Sometimes, black or white is thrown into the mix. Then the only thing to think about when deciding the color of the snap is which color blends in the best with the material you are using.
- Using Snaps or Hooks and Eyes
Snaps – The snap we are going to show you how to sew on to your costume is the traditional snap. The first thing you want to think about is how the two pieces of the snap fit together. You want to make sure that when you sew the snap down, the two pieces of the snap will fit together. It is really easy to sew one of the pieces upside down if you are not really careful. Snap the two pieces together and that will tell you what sides face up. Carefully place the first half of the snap face up where you plan to sew it.
You will notice that there are four holes on each half of the snap. So, the first thing you want to do is mark where you want the snaps to go. Then, thread your needle and knot the end of the thread. You can either double thread it which would give you two strands to work with at a time or even double thread it twice which would give you four strands to work with at a time. We explain both methods of threading the needle in the section on Pins and Needles above. We recommend the four strand method of threading when working with heavier garments.
To sew the snap down, you first need to decide where you want to place the snap. To get a good fit, start with sewing the snap on the top flap first. If you are starting with the top flap, you want to make sure the stitches do not show if at all possible. If the material is doubled, you can sew your stitches in between the layers of fabric. If there is only one layer of material, you obviously do not have the luxury of hiding the stitches. Start the stitch just under where the snap will sit with the knot between the fabric and the snap and sew into the first layer of material. Sew your needle through the first hole, then go underneath the snap and come up through the next hole. Repeat that all the way around the snap. Basically, you are sewing around the snap from one hole to the next. This keeps the snap in position. Once you have sewn all the way around the snap, tie the thread in a knot. That way it stays in place if the thread breaks. If you have threaded your needle so that you actually are sewing with four strands of thread, you should only need to circle the snap once or twice. Otherwise, continue sewing around the snap but this time concentrate on one hole at a time. Sew into the first hole several times, tie a knot and then move on to the next hole. Continue this way until you have completely circled the snap again. Next, lay the flap down on the other side of the waistband. This will allow you to determine where the second half of the snap should sit. Before you start sewing the other half of the snap down, make sure that you match the two halves together to ensure that the two halves of the snap fit together. The way to ensure that is to press both sides of the snap together and this will show you how the second half should sit on the fabric. You will then sew the second half exactly the way you did the first half.
Hooks and Eyes
The second item we will show you is the hook and eye. The larger, flat hook and eye is typically used on a waistband. They are all pretty much the same in the way they are placed on the material and sewn down. With the hook and eye, you want to sew the hook on the underside of the waistband that overlaps the other end. You want to make sure that the stitches do not come through that part of the waistband because they will show on the front of the garment. Before sewing anything down make sure it is placed right. Place the hook on the underside of the waistband that overlaps the other side. Place the hook centered at the end of the waistband. Do not place it all the way to the edge or it may show. Give it just a little room between the end of the hook and the edge of the waistband so that the hook does not show when the garment is closed. You will notice that there are three holes in the hook. Doing your best to stitch between the two layers of fabric and not stitch through to the front of the garment, feed your needle through the first hole and then sew through the other two. This will keep the hook in place. Tie the thread off in case the thread breaks. Then, sew through each hole a number of times and tie the thread off. Remember, if you thread your needle as shown in the Pins and Needles section above so that you end up with four threads, you will need to make less stitches. Once you have finished sewing the hook down, place the top piece of the waistband on the other side of the waistband where it closes and mark where the hook meets the other side. That is where you will sew the eye. Place the eye so that it lines up with the hook and then sew the eye to the waistband with several stitches in the holes on either end of the eye.
The smaller hook and eye is usually used at the neckline of a blouse or dress. It will be sewn down very similar to the large, flat hook and eye. Place the hook almost to the edge of the top piece with the hook just a hair from the edge and sew it down with several stitches in each hole. Then , slip your needle between the layers of fabric, bring your needle and thread up on one side of the hook and over the end of the hook and insert the needle back into the fabric on the other side of the hook. Make sure that the thread lies under the top portion and the base of the hook. If the material where you are sewing the hook is double layered, try to hide the stitches between the two layers. Once the hook is sewn down tight, place the eye on the other side of the opening and sew the eye down. If using the “U” shaped eye, we usually have the rounded edge protruding just slightly from the edge of the opening. Again, you want to sew through the two holes several times. Then, sew over the point protruding from the holes a couple of times to keep it tight. If you are using the straight “I” shaped eye, place the eye just parallel to the edge of the opening. Sew into the holes several times at the top and bottom of the eye.
