In this tutorial, I am going to show you how to make a pattern based on your favorite dance shorts – a pattern that you can use to make future booty shorts or dance shorts. It is very simple and it will blow your mind at how fast it is and how much fun it is to do.
Supplies:
- Your favorite dance shorts
- Old sheets, scraps of leftover material, or Kraft or butcher paper for the pattern
- Pens for writing on the pattern
- Pins
- Scissors
- Some sort of a measuring tape or ruler
Directions:
- Choosing Your Materials
The first thing you will need to do is find a pair of shorts that you already have that you like the way they fit.
Next, you will need to choose the fabric that you want to use to make the pattern. Old sheets, left over pieces of material are perfect for this purpose. You can also use Kraft paper or butcher paper.
- Laying Out Favorite Shorts and Tracing Around Them
The first thing you are going to do is take those favorite shorts and turn them inside out. Fold these shorts in half matching the left seam to right seam making sure that all the seams match up. You will now be able to see the flow of the shorts and the direction that everything goes. You will want to pin the center back seam together so that it does not get mixed up and twisted around. Do the same with the center front seam.
Next, open up your shorts and lay them flat on the table with the center seam, crotch and inseam on the left and the side seams on the right. I suggest that you pin the shorts to the pattern material so that it does not move around. Mark the pattern material exactly where the shorts end – around the hem of the shorts. Trace around the bottom of the shorts and up the left side along the inseam to the crotch area. Then, trace the crotch, center seam and above the waistline to the right to the side seam. Make a slight mark, approximately an inch, next to the side seam at both the top and bottom of the seam.
Do not worry about the seam allowance. That will be done later. We will also account for the elastic later on. However, you want to remember that if you are using booty shorts that stretch to make your pattern, you must also use material that stretches to make the new booty shorts. If the present booty shorts are made of two-way stretch, you will need to use two-way stretch for the new shorts. It the present booty shorts are made of four-way stretch, you will need to use four-way stretch for the new booty shorts. (However, the pattern itself should not be made from fabric that stretches.) Otherwise, shorts made from this pattern will not fit.) Carefully lift the top portion of the shorts (the right side that is folded over on top of the left side) and repin the bottom layer of the shorts to the material to keep it securely in place. While repining the bottom layer, make sure that it is laying flat with no wrinkles. With the pins keeping the bottom layer in place, roll the top layer over to the right so that you end up with the top layer lying flat next to, and to the right of, the bottom layer. You will probably have to carefully do a little bit of repositioning and repining. Using the little marks you made at the top and the bottom of the side seam as a guide, make sure that the measurements on the right side are equal to those on the left side. You can also use the measurements of the original shorts to check and make sure that the measurements of the pattern are correct. You want to match the waistline, hems, crotch and inseam. You also need to mark the top and bottom hems of the pattern. Mark the top all the way across from the left to the right side of the pattern. Remember, we will be adding the allowance at the top for the elastic later. Your final pattern will end up with the left half being a mirror image of the right half. This will result with your new shorts having only center and crotch seams to sew. There will be no side seams at all.
It is best not to move the original pins until you know that the booty shorts used to make the pattern is really secure in the other spots. Be very careful when pinning. Be careful not to poke yourself when pinning the shorts to the pattern material.
Now that the left side of the booty shorts is carefully pinned in place, carefully roll the right side of the booty shorts (top layer) over from the center seam. Lay the rights side flat and pin it securely in place. Repeat marking around the right side of the shorts as you just did around the left. Make sure and stretch the elastic out at the top. You have the gathers there from the elastic, but you want to compensate for that. Once the right side is pinned securely in place, you can remove the pins from the left side. Then, roll the left side over on top of the right side. The original shorts will now look like the reverse of what you started out with. Remember, especially for your first try, do not use the fabric that you want for the final version of the booty shorts. Use throw away material or paper to create a pattern and then cut the material you want to use for the new booty shorts.
- Adding Seam Allowance
If you are using an overlock or serger to recreate these shorts, you are going to want to add a different seam allowance than if you are using a straight stitch sewing machine. Usually you add a ¼” for an overlock or serger and a half an inch for a straight stitch machine.
Here is a crucial thing. You will notice how much the original booty shorts shrunk up from the markings on the pattern even though we followed the outline of the shorts. When you stretch out the elastic, you will see that it makes sense and it matches up.
- Adding Allowance for Elastic at Waistband
Here is a crucial thing. You will notice how much the original booty shorts shrunk up from the markings on the pattern even though we followed the outline of the shorts. When you stretch out the elastic, you will see that it makes sense and it matches up.
We are using 1 inch elastic. Therefore, we will need to create a casing at the waistband that will allow for the elastic. We do not want to have too much room because the elastic will probably twist. So, to begin with we will need to add 1 ¼ inches to the top of the pattern to allow for the elastic and the extra for folding the top over. When the elastic is sewn onto the shorts, you will line the elastic up to the top edge of the shorts, stretch the elastic out and zig zag the elastic to the top of the shorts. Then turn the top of the shorts over the elastic and stitch the edge of the elastic and the fabric to the shorts. It is important to remember to stretch the elastic as you sew it to the top of the shorts and when you turn the top over and sew it down on the shorts.
- Adding Allowance for Hem
Now, comes the crucial part. We have a little over two inches, 2 ¼ inches on the inseam. So, I am going to mark 3 inches. That will give us ¾ inches for the hem line. So, measure 3 ¼ inches down for the hem line. I use a line of dots instead of a solid line so I can basically connect the dots when I am sewing it. Then I am going to go along the path there – but there you can see too, if your crotch length on one side , you need to correct it if it is off because you need these seams to match up perfectly.
One more thing you are going to need to do. On the crotch, I am going to give a ¼ inch – I can pretty much eyeball ¼ inch because of my extensive experience. But, if you are not, then make sure to measure it out with a ruler or cut a piece of paper with the width that is the same as the measurement you want. You can then use it as a guide. Remember, to mark on your shorts where that line is and that way you will not have a problem.
- Cutting Out the Pattern
Double check to make sure that you have included all the necessary additional allowances for seams and hems, etc. before you cut the pattern out.
Once you have added all necessary seam allowances, you can start cutting it. When you cut, just make sure that the scissors are following along the lines that have been marked. That way, if there has been a small mistake or there is a little bump, you will have a perfect opportunity to fix it when you actually cut out your pattern. If you believe you are off a little bit from the ¼ inch seam allowance or ½ inch seam allowance, you can adjust it when you are cutting it.
Once you have cut the pattern out along its outside perimeter, fold it in half and make sure that all the outside edges match. I am a little off on my measurement right there so I am going to adjust it right here.
- Measuring the Elastic
So, there is our pattern without any changes made to it. Now, the next question is the length of the elastic.
The waistband of the booty shorts is already gathered up. So, if you really like the way the original booty shorts fit, you can just measure that elastic and add at least an inch to the length. Do not stretch it. Use the measurements with the elastic relaxed. The easiest way to measure the elastic is to lay it against a yardstick or other measurement device. In this case, the measurement is 11” but this elastic is folded in half, so you will actually need 22”. But you will need to have the ends overlap. Consequently, you will need to add extra to the measurement. If you add 1” to the length of the elastic, you can overlap the elastic ½ inches and will end up with the 22” needed. Write those measurements right on the pattern. If you feel more comfortable with an overlap of 1 inch, add two inches to the length of the elastic. Make sure that you pick elastic that is about the same softness, stretchiness etc. You do not want to have a hard one when the elastic in your shorts is a soft one.
- Marking the Pattern with Notes
Any information you have gleaned while making this pattern, should be written in permanent marker on the pattern. This information should include, but not be limited to, whether the material was two way stretch or four way stretch, the size of the seam allowance, the depth of the hem, the length of the depth of elastic casing and the amount of fabric that is turned under in both those cases.
- Things to Remember When Using the Pattern
Remember, when you cut the material you are going to use for the final shorts, you will need to have a left side and a right side. The easiest way to do that is to fold the material in half which will have either the “shiny” side or the “non-shiny” side facing each other. If for some reason you are not folding the material in half, either layer the material with one piece facing up and one side facing down before you cut the material. Another option would be to cut the material in two separate passes and cut the material once and then flip the pattern over and cut it again. Each of these steps, will ensure that you will have a left side and a right side.
And there you have it. You have a pattern for shorts
If you enjoyed this demonstration, make sure to look at our other demonstration or the Bdancewear videos on YouTube. You can subscribe to our channel so that you do not miss any of the amazing videos that we will have coming out. If you want to get our free complete dance costume DIY guide, go to bdancewear.com/DIY guide. Lastly if you have any questions or ideas for future videos or demonstrations, please contact us through our YouTube channel or on our website – bdancewear.com
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